Instanbul and Cappadocia

Istanbul
Meeting with Jesse at the airport was easier than I expected. We met at a Starbucks! Of all places...ha. We met up, hugs were given and we talked for about 20 minutes about travel and sights in general. We took the metro to Sultanahmet, where our first hostel was located. The first thing I noticed was how modern everything was. Tokens for the subway, computers and other machines everywhere. Now for 2 years I didn't see a receipt, let alone a computer. Istanbul is a huge city. We passed by buildings, stadiums, an old city wall maybe 50 feet high. The Minarets, towers, and other relics of the past are everywhere. The city has literally absorbed the landscape around it. It took us 45 minutes to arrive in our part of the city. We immediately saw Sultanahmet Camii ( Sultan Ahmet Mosque or The Blue Mosque) and Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) in a large square. There was an Obelisk from the Byzantine to right of us next the road. These places take up every bit of the sky you see. I am still so impressed at their Brobdingnagian size. The work that was put into them, most have been labor intensive. We walked through the square and wondered down some cobble-stoned streets; streets barely wide enough for a car. As we finally drew near our hostel, I felt a big weight lifted off my shoulders. I was no longer in The Gambia. I was starting a new journey, something different and new. I looked forward to it.
The next morning after a hot shower and a sound sleep, we traveled back to Ayasofa and Sultanahmet Camii for views of the inside of these places. First, we went to Sultanahmet Camii. We wandered around the outside of the complex looking at outline of the mosque and its minarets, its overall size and all the small domes. There were ablution spots on all sides of it. The marble or stone was still quite lambent after so many years. I took several pictures of the outside of it, while taking everything in. I found the entrance to enter inside, but was sort of uncomfortable with entering. I remember in The Gambia that if you were not a Muslim, you could not enter a mosque. In this case, we being called by a Turkish man to come and see. We entered reluctantly and removed our shoes. Inside was one central room or the main dome. This "big" room was more like an infinite expanse. All the white pillars and walls were covered with beautiful designs in reds and blues. The soft carpet under toe was spotless and well cut. My first thought was how incredibly dingy it was, but after a few minutes you didn't even notice. You aren't there to look at the carpet anyways. There is a praying "area" where some Muslims were praying. They blocked it off with a long wooding banister. I noticed everyone taking pictures of the men praying. This bothered me in a way. This is there space and we are just here to see it. Its one thing that its prayer time and we're there, its something else to take pictures of them while they pray. The chandeliers that hung from the ceiling, were quite nice in their own eclectic way. I sat for a few minutes on the floor just taking everything in. I could feel the energy surging through the building. Its hard not to; there is so much history in that place. Looking out of a large wooden doorway; I could see my next stop on the other side of the square, Ayasofya.
Ayasofya was built before Sultanahmet Camii in 360. It was originally a Greek cathedral, but was destroyed by rioters twice, once in 532, again 537. It was a Roman Catholic cathedral from 1261 to 1453. From 1453, until 1943 it was a mosque. Its now a museum. The central dome is incredible. So far on my travels, I never seen anything to quite compare. Ayasofya is considered one greatest surviving examples of Byzantine architecture. The huge buttresses and arches are everywhere. The windows are copious. The architects over the years that have fixed collapsed domes, broken windows, and other structural issues were extremely ingenious. Through history always changing certain issues and replacing them with more inventive and pulchritudinous architecture. There are two floors with a views of the main room abundant. The walk up to the second level is through a space wide enough for carts to move heavy stones. The floor is made of cobblestone and is worn down by feet over centuries to a lustrous, almost slippery sheen. The second level of the church is decorated similarly to the first level, but with some older, unearthed pictures of Jesus and his apostles, as well as Mary. There are even old cast iron candle holders aligning the second levels inner walls. When you look up to the center of the main dome from the second level you can see the exquisitely painted works of hand. Saint John Chrysostom is seen as well as Pope John The Baptist, and other mosaics by Patriarch Photius with (Emperor Micheal III and Basil I present) , Emperor Alexander, Empress Zoe, and Emperor John II Comnenus. The artwork is gracefully painted in many colors, but with Christ wearing a blue robe with gold backgrounds (Typical 9th Century art style). There is amazing tile work everywhere and geometric shapes are plentiful. I wondered around taking all of this in. Ayasofya is another impressive construction endeavor. I was feeling the same vibe that I felt in Sultanahmet Camii here, but stronger. This structure felt to me like a breathing entity. I glanced over at one point to see Jesse sitting next to an old man in some wooden chairs along a wall. It was really picturesque. Jesse, a young, healthy man. The old Turkish man riddled with scoliosis, leaning on a wooden cane to sit in a chair.
After leaving Ayasofya, we worked around the city for possibly 4 hours. I found a nice doner and a park to sit in. As I sat, the fat cats of Istanbul arrived with hopes of some falling scrapes finding there way to the ground. Jesse and I chatted about a lot of things and our lives over the past two years. It is one of those memories I will not forget. Afterward, we wandered up a nearby road and passed under a Roman aqueduct. Once again, the city had built around this treasure of the past. It was weird watching traffic run directly underneath it. We walked into the Grand Bazaar accidentally. Inside the bazaar, people passed and weaved. Sellers offering prices and hot Turkish tea. Herbs and Spices galore. The arched ceiling and geometric patterns with a splash of yellow background was very appealing. Later on made back to our second hostel and had an Efes, the Turkish beer. It was tasty, not a Julbrew, but good. Drank a little Raki too. Turkish liquor that tastes like licorice. Went bed that night feeling pretty damn good.
Woke up the next morning and bought fresh pomegranate juice on the street. It was delicious. I also had the pleasant surprise of seeing my first snow in over two years that morning. We walked again through the city. Moved out of the touristy part of Istanbul and went to an area called Beyoglu. We were near Taksim square, in the pouring rain wandering around looking for our next hostel (we forgot to get an address before we left.) We stumbled upon a small riot over some issue (found out later had to do with Kurdistan). There were police with riot gear and shields waiting for something to happen, nothing did and we moved on. We eventually found the hostel, which was near Galata Tower. When we arrived we immediately sat next to a heater for over an hour. My feet were soaked to the core and had lost feeling. That night we met up with a friend of Jesse's that went to our college. She showed us around and took us to a tea bar. I drank to cups and a coffee. Watched a Galatasaray game on TV; they won. Afterward, we met up with a friend of friend of mine for food and beers. We went to a traditional Turkish restaurant and ate like kings. Met some cool people and then went for some beers. Drank Tequila and beer, met a Kurd, who lived on boats for a living. He had three months to kill, before setting off again. All he wanted was alcohol and women. he told me he lived in a container in Baghdad for 4 years. They told us about suicide bombers killing police. Putting bombs in trashcans, robbery, and murder. Not against citizens, but against the police and the government. Heard a story about a guy, who held an entire ferry at gunpoint, until the police arrived and gunned him down. No one knows why he did it. After dinner went back to the hostel and talked with a guy about the Peace Corps. He was really interested and said a lot of nice things about me and my choice. I was smoking a ciggarette with him, while he talked to his girlfriend in Qatar. Lots of "I love you baby"'s were said and lots of "I promise"'s too.
Went to Galata Tower the next day. It is a tourist trap, I didn't want to pay 15 bucks to view the city from a restaurant at the top of the tower. Jesse and I decided to go to Cappadocia, so we left for the bus station. When we arrived at the Otogar main bus station, I immediately went to the bathroom. I didn't see Jesse again until 5 hours later at the hostel.
Cappadocia
Jesse decided not to go the next morning so I went alone. I left earlier in the morning it was still dark. I encountered three teenagers. As I walked up, I realized that they all had lead pipes in their hands. I tried not to be too intimated, but as soon as they saw me their attention was on me. They walked up and were saying something to me in Turkish. I didn't understand. I just kept walking, they decided to follow me, which annoyed me. They were hitting their pipes against the walls of nearby buildings. I finally turned around and said "Fuck Off!" They stopped and stared at me. We waited for a few moments and they turned around and went the way they started.
The bus ride took 11 hours and was fairly crowded. When we reached Ankara the capital, it got kind of confusing. Several bus changes and no English didn't help. Luckily, small Japanese woman on my bus named Kobo helped me by translated Turkish into English. What a world! I made to the right bus and moved on. Saw an amazing sunset at Tuz Gulo an enormous salt flat. Made it to Nevinshir around 7 at night. It was snowing again, which was nice. Took a bus to Goreme. Goreme is a crazy little town. People live in caves there. The government regulates the work done to caves. I talked to one guy who told me that if he even put a nail in the wall that was 20 years in prison. He also told me that the caves are great for your health and keep food fresher longer. An Orange can last up to 5 years without going bad, an apple 4, grapes 2, and grapefruit 5. I arrived at my hostel and then owner took me out for some drinks. We drove around the town in his old Renault, until we found the place he was looking for; a small bar full of Turks watching the Fenerbache game on a projector. The owner a lunatic gave me tea and beer. I asked someone how to say thank you in Turkish, he told me. I said "Thank You," which was actually "Fuck off!" in Turkish. The owner flipped out, screaming "No! Fuck You! Get the fuck out of here!" I didn't know what was happening. Everyone laughed at my expense. I was warned about Turks and their ways of joking...I was warned. I came back to the hostel later and wanted to dry my socks. I laid them on top of a heater for a few seconds maybe ten at the most. I burned them and the room smelt like absolute shit. I went and told the owner what I had down. He was fine, but my Asian roommate was not to happy. All I got was "Really, why would you do that?" I know its hard to piss off a Asian person, there the nicest people on planet earth. I achieved that goal, I pissed him off. After my sock burning episode, I went to get some food. Ended up meeting my other roommates. We drank and ate, I played FIFA 12 on 60 inch plasma. The owner was a Turk, who just came back from Australia after 8 years. I called him the rubberband, its like the man had no bones in his body or he was double jointed everywhere. He could dance...like a rubberband. Talked with a solider about the war in Kurdistan. Talked to a Turk, who translated for American troops in Iraq. Drank a lot. We had the town to ourselves it was really amazing.
Next morning, went on a tour of Cappadocia, saw Derinkuyu Yeralti Sehri (Derinkuyu Underground City). Its the largest underground city of its kind in Cappadocia. We seemed to be in a hurry, so I didn't see as much as I wanted to. It was extremely impressive though. An insane feat digging 11 stories underground. Its so easy to get lost too. Lots of tunnels, holes in the floor (booty-traps), etc. The hallways were built so that if they were attacked by invaders only one man at a time could go down the hallway, making it easier to kill them. Saw some torture devices, a stable, a cathedral, a burial site, all underground. Next, went to a mountain cathedral, it was beautiful. Saw some valleys, went to a few small towns. That night, I decided to go back to Istanbul. Took a night bus, arrived in the morning, met with Jesse and we decided to go to Bulgaria. We went back to Otogar, this time didn't get separated. I got a ticket, thought I lost my camera, I found it. Pissed off a Turk for getting in my bag too much. That's Turkey for you. Off to Bulgaria.